Let’s be real for a second—London is the most diverse city in the world. You can eat your way from Lagos to Lahore without leaving Zone 3.
So why does the Michelin star map look like it’s stuck in 1985? No shade (okay, maybe a little), but in a city bursting with cultural brilliance, the lack of representation is starting to feel like a bad joke.
This year, we’ve got Hélène Darroze and Clare Smyth holding onto their three stars, which is cool. But scroll down the list of new one-star restaurants, and you won’t find a single woman leading the kitchen. Not one. It's giving "boys’ club but make it fine dining."
Here’s the kicker: Michelin isn’t just a guide; it’s a tastemaker. It’s the playlist we all pretend not to care about but secretly listen to on repeat. When Michelin puts someone on, they’re not just giving out stars—they’re shaping careers, influencing diners, and deciding who gets the spotlight. So, why isn’t that spotlight shining on the full spectrum of talent London has to offer?
There are incredible women and chefs of color out there who are smashing it: Roberta Hall-McCarron, Florence Knight, Skye Gyngell—the list goes on. Their food isn’t just good; it’s unforgettable. So why aren’t they being celebrated at the same level? And don’t even get me started on how many cuisines are constantly underrepresented or watered down for “fine dining.” Fusion is cool, but cultural erasure is not.
Let’s also talk about what this means for the next generation of chefs. Imagine you’re a young woman, or a kid from an immigrant family, dreaming of running your own kitchen. You look at the Michelin winners and see a sea of men in suits with the same tired smirk. That doesn’t scream “welcome to the club,” does it? It screams, “good luck getting in.” You can’t dream of what you don’t see, and right now, what we’re seeing is painfully one-note.
That said, the industry is shifting. Slowly. Toxic kitchens are being called out, hours are getting less brutal, and young chefs aren’t putting up with the same old macho BS. People are starting to get that women can have kids and still kill it in the kitchen, and that diversity isn’t a trend—it’s the fabric of modern Britain.
But we need more. More women, more people of color, more chefs who didn’t go to fancy culinary schools but learned to cook in their mum’s kitchen. Michelin could help lead that charge, but they’re still playing it safe. And safe is boring.
London’s food scene is chaos in the best way—messy, vibrant, alive. The Michelin guide needs to catch up. Until then, I’ll keep cheering for the rebels, the innovators, and the chefs who don’t fit the mold. The future of food is diverse, inclusive, and delicious. It’s time Michelin started tasting it.
